Made in Africa

Demand alliance partner Tchibo initiates all-African textile production

Instead of exporting African cotton as a raw material, why not use African spinning mills and African textile factories as well? That approach could lend entirely new meaning to the notion of “Cotton Made in Africa” – and it would leave more of the value-added chain in Africa, benefiting the people who live there. German retailer Tchibo has taken the first step.

Until now, within the framework of the Cotton Made in Africa project, the Aid by Trade Foundation has worked exclusively to support the sustainable cultivation of cotton in Africa and assure access for that cotton to global markets. Spinning and textile processing took place at facilities around the world. Christian Barthel, Global Sourcing Manager at the Aid by Trade Foundation, says that working to see that retail companies and manufacturers gain access to cotton cultivated in Africa under sustainable conditions will remain the core of the project. But a move to keep spinning and manufacturing in Africa is in line with the goals of the Aid by Trade Foundation. “Advocating the export of African cotton for processing elsewhere is not our ultimate goal,“ Barthel says, but the organization’s power to influence demand alliance partners has been limited, since each company has its production capacities and marketing structures already in place.

With this initial order, CmiA demand alliance partner Tchibo breaks new ground. The items to be sold by Tchibo use sustainably produced cotton from Benin as a raw material, but in addition, the cotton is spun in Ethiopia, while manufacturing takes place in Egypt. “This development is of immense significance for the people of Africa,” Barthel explains. Beyond the economic utility of this first order, Ethiopia and Egypt will see long-term benefits: Investors who site production in African countries improve the structural viability of the continent’s textile industry. The transfer of know-how sustains future growth.

Since the mandate of the Cotton Made in Africa project is limited to a single development policy goal – encouraging the sustainable cultivation of cotton – the Aid by Trade Foundation relies on initiatives by the demand alliance. Barthel expresses the hope “that this first fully African production will give the impetus to other partners in the demand alliance to have cotton spun and textiles manufactured in Africa.” The benefits of such products to demand alliance members go beyond socially responsibility, Barthel says. “Over the long term, the high quality of the textiles and the geographic proximity of the African production facilities will constitute competitive advantages on the European market.”

Text: Sascha Hellmann