Fashions That Change the World

Cotton Made in Africa recently presented its program to the South African textile industry.

One major goal has already been reached: The productivity of small cotton farmers who receive support from Cotton Made in Africa is climbing steadily. The next important step is to generate demand on the African continent to enable direct sales and local processing of their cotton.

With that in mind, a delegation from the Aid by Trade Foundation traveled to Cape Town and met on February 23rd with a succession of experts on fashion in South Africa and key figures from the South African textile industry. The gathering drew a wide range of attendees, with retailers, designers, elected politicians, trade union representatives, exporters, and agricultural experts all discussing potential ways in which Cotton Made in Africa could benefit South Africa and its textile industry.

An enhanced presence in South African markets would simplify the production of textiles that are one hundred percent “made in Africa,” as well as helping reduce the products’ carbon footprint. “South Africa is a key market for us,” Aid by Trade Foundation Marketing Director Tina Stridde explained.

Since 1994 – the year when South Africa joined the ranks of the world’s democracies – more than 740 million Euros have been invested in modernizing the country’s clothing and textile industries. But strong competition from Asian nations such as China and Bangladesh has made it difficult for the South African textile industry to develop as a profitable and internationally competitive market. In recent years, wide availability of inexpensive Chinese imports has cost the country thousands of jobs.

Still, textile manufacturing in South Africa offers many advantages: fair wages, safe working conditions, consistent quality, and a depth of local design and management talent. Products with a positive impact on the lives of those who make them attract the attention of buyers more interested in the principles of fair trade than in getting the lowest possible price.

Working with Cotton made in Africa could permit South African manufacturers to strengthen their sector of the economy, in the opinion of South African fashion industry consultant and expert Kenneth Winer. “Cotton Made in Africa gives us the opportunity to do something meaningful and make a difference. The project is an ideal launching pad for rural development.”

Quite a lot is already happening on the African continent. Cotton farmers from Burkina Faso, Benin, Zambia, and Mozambique are participating in the project, and small farmers in Malawi and Ivory Coast will be integrated into the Cotton Made in Africa program later this year. The Aid by Trade Foundation is also working with cotton spinning plants in Ethiopia, Egypt, and South Africa, as well as on the island of Mauritius. South African retailers are the missing piece in the puzzle, Winer says: “We can’t make it without their buy-in.”

The retailers’ initial displays of interest have yet to lead to binding commitments. “We see potential and will take a closer look at the project, because we are definitely interested in supporting the local textile industry,” Selwyn Eagle remarked. But the director of purchasing at the Foschini Group, one of South Africa’s largest retailers, hesitates to make promises. “The depth of our involvement with Cotton Made in Africa will ultimately depend on our own cost estimates,” Eagle concluded.

It is clear that finding ways to cooperate may be a lengthy process. “We are very happy to discuss practical issues with retailers and find solutions together,” Christian Barthel says, Cotton made in Africa’s director of global sourcing. “We know we have to give our best efforts in support of the South African textile industry if we want to enter the market here.”

On the public sector side, Cotton Made in Africa was immediately welcomed with open arms. “Cotton Made in Africa is a project that addresses problems we need to confront here in South Africa. I especially like its direct approach, that this is not about a charitable effort, but instead about marketable products. In theory at least, I can easily imagine that it will be implemented here,” Elaine Smith summed up. She is director of industrial development in the South African Ministry of Economic Development.

Her colleague Shuray Bux, design sector head with responsibilities including clothing and tedxtiles in the Directorate of Industry Development and Tourism for the Western Cape, was in full agreement. “I am extremely impressed by the low overhead necessary to administer this project, training included.”

Stefanie Vieira, director of the Cape Town Fashion Council, believes that successful integration of Cotton Made in Africa into South Africa’s textile industry could have far-reaching implications. “Cotton Made in Africa could be a chance to grow the export market for South African brands and open doors for local designers.” She believes that Cotton Made in Africa should receive support on the basis of its economic development objectives as well as for purely commercial considerations. “Cotton Made in Africa is an exciting project for South Africa. If Africa weren’t prepared to do something for Africa, it would be very sad.”

Text and photos by Kristin Palitza